|"H" for Horcher.|
Having bought the Eichelmann this year instead of the Gault Millau, I've managed to gain a slightly different perspective of how the land is lying. Thanks to the Eichelmann's democratic alphabetical layout, I've also "discovered" a few new names I may have otherwise passed over when reading the Gault Millau.
It was in the Eichelmann that I recently chanced upon the name of Horcher. Based in Kallstadt in the Pfalz, they aren't mentioned in the Gault Millau guide at all (the same applies to one or two other wineries). Then again, the Eichelmann doesn't mention Ziereisen either.
Weingut Horcher, Cuvée CM 2008 trocken, Pfalz, GermanyThe "C" stands for Cabernet Sauvignon, the "M" for Merlot.
Quite understatedly ruby coloured. Subtle vanilla and lead pencil shavings. Red fruit on the nose but also on the softly-softly side. I'm glad I bought six bottles of this, as it sold out not long after ordering. Elegant, cool fruit on the palate, almost Pinot-like. The finish is long.
The qualities of 2008 as a red wine vintage come to the fore here, in that the delicate, almost watery fruit shines through and that nothing feels overblown.
Paradoxically, this wine still carries a little more substance than my previous offering "Red Moon". Despite its freshness and elegance, it is more a wine to enjoy in small sips, leaving you more satiated than you would expect. But that is not a criticism as such, because Cuvée CM is a surprisingly brilliant wine.