Tuesday 31 August 2010

Monkey business

The image of a monkey adorns the labels on Boris Kranz's wines. This is a nod to the fact that the path which runs along the side of the Kleine Kalmit is called the Affenschaukel. This word can mean "monkey swing", but it is also slang for a variety of things about which I have no particular desire to go into detail.

Anyway, I digress.

Boris Kranz, along with Ilbesheim colleague Sven Leiner and Peter Siener from Weingut Siener in Birkweiler, belong to the VDP Pfalz's selected group of vintners who are aspiring to become fully fledged VDP members. Judging by the following wine, Kranz's credentials are excellent in that regard.

Weingut Kranz, Kalmit Riesling Spätlese trocken, 2008, Pfalz
With a nice clear straw-yellow appearance, this wine opened up dramatically in the glass within the space of 20 minutes or so. Multi-layered citrus aromas developing into orange and more exotic fruit. Opening on the front of palate with orange zest, then building up to a gorgeous mid-palate of minerals and succulent yellow stone fruit and mango. The acidics are tingly (as is the 2008 vintage's wont) but ripe. Not totally bone dry, but that's no fault in my book. The finish is long. This wine has poise. I would say this is safely grand cru/Grosses Gewächs standard, despite it "only" costing me EUR 12.90. Although it isn't Kranz's top Riesling, which is around two to three euros more expensive.

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